The internet says a $13 Japanese drugstore cleansing oil runs on the same botanical oil base as shu uemura’s cult-favorite ultime8. Usually that kind of claim falls apart the second you read the label.
This one doesn’t. We pulled both INCI lists from CosDNA and the overlap is real, and bigger than the viral graphic even says.
But there’s fine print, and it changes who should buy which. Let’s get into it.
The Price Gap & The Viral Myth
Here’s what you’ll pay in the US:
- shu uemura ultime8 Sublime Beauty Cleansing Oil: ~$53 USD for 150ml
- matsukiyo W/M AAA Active Cleanse Cleansing Oil: ~$13 USD for 150ml
Both bottles hold 150ml, so there’s no volume trick this time. The gap is a straight 4.1x: about $0.35 per ml vs. about $0.09 per ml.
That’s $40 back in your pocket per bottle. The rumor mill says you give up nothing for it, because the two share the same botanical oil lineup.
We checked. Keep reading.
The At-a-Glance Comparison
| Product | Price (USD) & Volume | Shared Core Base Oils | Unique Star Actives | Formulation Focus |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| shu uemura ultime8 Cleansing Oil | ~$53 / 150ml | Corn Germ, Olive, Rice Bran, Camellia Seed, Soybean, Jojoba, Safflower, Meadowfoam Oils | Polyglyceryl-6 emulsifier system, Bamboo Extract, Camellia Flower Extract | Water-free, silky-rinse sensorial oil |
| matsukiyo W/M AAA Cleansing Oil | ~$13 / 150ml | Corn Germ, Olive, Rice Bran, Camellia Seed, Soybean, Jojoba, Safflower, Meadowfoam Oils | Squalane, Ceramide NP/NG/AP, Shea Butter | Budget oil with barrier-friendly extras |
The Shared Base: What the INCI Actually Confirms
Start with the good news for the dupe crowd. Corn Germ Oil is ingredient #1 in both.
The viral graphic lists seven shared ingredients, and every one of them checks out on both labels:
- Corn Germ Oil
- Olive Fruit Oil
- Rice Bran Oil
- Camellia Japonica Seed Oil
- Soybean Oil
- Panax Ginseng Root Extract
- Vitamin E (Tocopherol)
And the graphic undersold it. Both formulas also contain Jojoba Oil, Safflower Oil, and Meadowfoam Seed Oil. That’s ten shared ingredients across two products priced $40 apart. Overlap this strong is unusual.
Now the fine print. INCI lists only tell you the order, not the percentages. And after Corn Germ Oil, shu uemura’s next three ingredients are synthetic esters: Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Capric/Caprylic Triglycerides, and Isopropyl Myristate. So “botanical oil base” is a fair description of the lineup, not of the whole bottle.
shu uemura’s Craftsmanship: The Emulsifier System
So what does $53 buy? Mostly the engineering around the oils.
shu uemura uses a stack of Polyglyceryl esters (Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, Dicaprate, Caprylate, and Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate) plus Glyceryl Stearate Citrate. Emulsifiers are what let a cleansing oil turn milky when water hits it and rinse off clean instead of leaving a greasy film.
There’s no water in the list, so this is a pure oil formula. It also carries a few extras matsukiyo doesn’t: Bamboo Extract, Camellia Japonica Flower Extract, and Phospholipids.
Two flags worth knowing. CosDNA rates Isopropyl Myristate and Ethylhexyl Palmitate on the higher side for clogging pores, which matters more if you’re acne-prone. The formula also lists Parfum, Linalool, and Geraniol, so it’s fragranced.
Treat CosDNA’s scores as a rough guide, not a verdict. This is a rinse-off product, which lowers the risk.
matsukiyo’s Barrier Bonus: Squalane and Triple Ceramides
matsukiyo takes the same oil lineup and swaps in a different support system.
Its main emulsifier is PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, backed by Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate and Hydrogenated Lecithin. Water shows up as ingredient #3, so this one is a lighter, water-containing formula.
Then come the extras that make it more than a copy:
- Squalane, a lightweight, skin-friendly emollient
- Ceramide NP, Ceramide NG, and Ceramide AP, the trio of skin-barrier lipids
- Shea Butter and Phytosterols for extra softness
That’s a real upgrade on paper, and it’s rare to see three ceramides in a $13 cleanser.
Reality check, though. The ceramides sit deep in the list, so they’re present in small amounts, and you rinse this product off. Think of them as a nice bonus, not a barrier treatment. It’s also fragranced (Fragrance is #4), with Phenoxyethanol as the preservative.
The Verdict: A Genuinely Strong Dupe
This is one of the strongest dupe cases we’ve seen, with one honest asterisk: they’re not identical.
Get shu uemura if you want the water-free formula, the polyglyceryl emulsifier finish, and the spa-style ritual that goes with it. The $53 is paying for the polish and the brand, not a different set of base oils.
Get matsukiyo if you want nearly the same oil lineup for a quarter of the price, and you like the idea of Squalane and ceramides in your cleanser. For most people, this is the smarter buy.
Both are fragranced, so if your skin is reactive to scent, patch-test either one first.
So, are you paying for the oil or the ritual? Tell us which bottle lives on your sink in the comments, and check current prices through our links before you stock up.
Disclaimer: The information and ingredient analysis provided in this article are for educational and informational purposes only. Everyone’s skin type and condition are different; readers should carefully assess their own individual needs and conduct a patch test before purchasing or using any new skincare. Every product has its unique formulation and characteristics. For specific product inquiries or claims, please contact the respective brand directly. For professional dermatological advice, diagnoses, or skin concerns, always consult a board-certified dermatologist or qualified healthcare professional.
